Raja Ampat, otherwise known as “the last paradise”, is one of the most pristine scuba diving destinations in the world. It is a remote archipelago located in the depths of Indonesia, world renowned for beautiful healthy coral reefs, unique marine life and stunning scenery both above and below the water. If you’re a keen scuba diver, I highly recommend you push it to the very top of your bucket list, and in this guide you will find all the information you need to plan an epic adventure there.
Raja Ampat is a true underwater paradise, and after diving for over 20 years I can safely say it is home to the most beautiful and healthy coral reefs I haver experienced. There are some sharks and manta rays in the region, but this is not the main reason to visit as pelagic life isn’t as prolific here as other scuba diving destinations. The main appeal for divers is the biodiversity, unique species and stunning reefs. Currents are variable but they can be very strong, so I wouldn’t recommend Raja Ampat for absolute beginners. It would be wise to be advanced open water qualified with 20-50 dives and some current experience under your belt as a minimum.
The high season is from October to April, which is the more dry (or more accurately “slightly less wet”) season in this region of Indonesia. It offers calmer seas, excellent visibility and more sunshine to light up the underwater world.
Raja Ampat is seriously remote and it takes a lot of time and effort to get there, but it is totally worth it! You will need to fly into Indonesia and then get a domestic connecting flight to Sorong in West Papua. From here you can either get a ferry to the islands or board a liveaboard boat.
If you are newer to scuba diving, are on a tighter budget or just want to dip your toe into the underwater world in Raja Ampat then land based diving may be enough for you. Once you get to the local islands, the vast majority of the homestays and resorts offer scuba diving day trips as well as snorkelling, island visits and other excursions. A few years back when my husband was fairly new to diving we stayed at Misool Private Island Eco Resort and had an absolutely incredible time. We dived three times a day, ate delicious food, enjoyed the spa and got to do land based adventures too. Every evening we snorkelled in the island’s private bay with the local turtles. Absolute heaven. I would highly recommend this hotel if you are seeking barefoot luxury.
In contrast, basing yourself on a liveaboard means you can live and breathe the underwater world, fitting in up to four dives a day! You will move between islands overnight and be able to access the full range of the Raja Ampat and wider Indonesian dive sites. And best of all, you will fully immerse yourself in the eat, sleep, dive, repeat lifestyle with a group of like minded divers.
There are plenty of good quality liveaboard boats running in Indonesia, we chose to travel on Mermaid Liveaboards going one of their “biodiversity special” itineraries and had a great experience. It is worth bearing in mind, liveaboards in Indonesia are more expensive than other dive destinations, but it is definitely worth it if you want to experience the very best of the underwater world there.
You can rent this from the boat or dive stores with advanced notice, but most experienced divers bring their own as its makes more sense financially.
The water is very warm (28-30 degrees) so I dived in a 3-4mm short wetsuit most of the time, although on a couple of more grey days I pulled out my 5mm long. You’ll also need the usual bits such as booties, BCD, fins, mask, regulator, dive computer and SMB. I highly recommend packing a reef hook for dives with strong current.
Don’t forget your qualifications and proof of dive insurance.
I used a GoPro Hero 12 in the 30m dive casing on a floaty stick and it was perfect, capturing the whole trip beautifully.
To wear during evenings, mealtimes and between dives. A small selection of bikinis, shorts and lightweight tops are great for relaxing on the sundeck. If you are staying on a local island, remember that covering your shoulders is recommended for women.
For obvious reasons.
If you’re staying on an island.
I never wear makeup or style my hair when I am diving, so I just bring basic skincare staples, as well as nourishing hair products and masks. I recommend spraying a leave-in conditioner in your hair before each dive to prevent tangles.
Our boat had Starlink high speed internet, but not all boats do and phone signals disappear in many regions. Wifi can be seriously slow at resorts. It is worth bringing along some books to read during downtime and maybe card games for the evenings.
I strongly encourage you to book onto liveaboards as early as you can, as the best boats can be full 12-24 months in advance. Raja Ampat is not the best place to get certified, as most dive shops don’t offer courses. If you are staying on the local islands, bring plenty of cash as there are no ATMs. Wifi on the islands is unreliable and slow at best and in terms of phone coverage, Telkomsel has the best coverage.
Safe travels,
Have the most incredible time exploring the underwater world of the last paradise, it is truly heaven on earth!
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